Crete · Diners
Where to Eat in Heraklion: A Local's Guide
Published · 8 min read
Short answer
Eat in Heraklion around the 1866 market and Evans street for cheap, excellent mezedes, in the Lakkos quarter and the lanes off Korai for raki bars and small plates, on the Venetian harbour side for fish, and in the city's modern Cretan restaurants for tasting menus built on village ingredients. A mezedes dinner costs €12–€20 per person; a full seafood dinner €30–€45.
Key takeaways
- Heraklion is a working city — the food is priced for people who live there.
- Raki bars serve small plates free or very cheap with each round of raki.
- The market and its side streets are the best-value lunch in central Crete.
- Near Knossos, walk five minutes away from the entrance before eating.
- Most kitchens serve late; 21:00 is a normal dinner reservation.
The 1866 market and around
The central market street and the lanes leading off it are lined with small kitchens that have fed the city for decades. Grilled meat, seafood mezedes, soups, bean dishes — short menus, fast service, low bills.
This is a lunch destination above all: come between 13:00 and 15:00 when it is busiest and freshest.
- Budget €10–€18 per person including a drink.
Lakkos and Korai — raki bars and small plates
Lakkos, once the city's rough quarter, is now its most characterful eating and drinking area: painted walls, tiny courtyards, tables in the street. The format is rakadiko — you order raki, small plates keep arriving, and dinner assembles itself.
The lanes off Korai and Chandakos are busier and younger, with the same idea and slightly higher prices.
Fish and the waterfront
Heraklion's own waterfront is a working port rather than a pretty harbour, but the fish is good and local. For a seaside setting, the fishing villages either side of the city are a short drive and considerably more relaxed.
- Ask for the day's catch and confirm the per-kilo price before ordering.
- Expect €30–€45 per person for a full fish dinner.
Modern Cretan kitchens
Heraklion has the island's strongest contemporary dining scene: chefs using village ingredients — wild greens, sheep's cheeses, barley, local fish — with fine-dining technique and Cretan wine lists. Booking is essential at weekends.
- Tasting menus generally run €55–€90 per person.
Eating near Knossos
The restaurants directly facing the Knossos entrance exist because of the queue. Walk five minutes along the road, or drive into one of the nearby villages, and both the cooking and the price change completely. Better still, visit Knossos early and eat back in the city.
Find a table in Heraklion
Woltaro is free for restaurants — no subscription, no commission — and free for diners to browse menus, book tables and buy event tickets.
Frequently asked questions
- Is Heraklion good for food?
- Yes — it is the best city in Crete for everyday eating, because the restaurants serve residents rather than day-trippers. The market area, Lakkos raki bars and the modern Cretan kitchens are the highlights.
- What is a rakadiko?
- A rakadiko is a Cretan raki bar where small plates of food accompany each carafe of raki, often included or very cheap. It is the standard way to have an informal dinner in Heraklion.
- How much does dinner cost in Heraklion?
- Mezedes and raki cost around €12–€20 per person, a taverna dinner €18–€28, fresh fish €30–€45, and a contemporary tasting menu €55–€90.
- Where should I eat near Knossos?
- Avoid the restaurants immediately at the entrance. Either walk a few minutes down the road, eat in a nearby village, or return to Heraklion, which is only 15 minutes away.
- What time do people eat dinner in Heraklion?
- Kitchens open around 19:00 but the city eats from 21:00 onwards, later at weekends.