Crete · Diners

Best Restaurants in Rethymno: Old Town and Beyond

Published · 8 min read

Short answer

In Rethymno, eat in the Venetian old town's back streets for traditional Cretan cooking, on the small Venetian harbour for atmosphere rather than value, and in the Amari valley villages inland for the best food-to-price ratio on the island. Avoid the long beach strip east of town, where menus are generic and aimed at package hotels. Budget €15–€25 per person in town.

Key takeaways

  • The old town's quiet lanes beat both the harbour and the beach road.
  • The Venetian harbour is small and charming but priced for the setting.
  • The Amari valley, 30–45 minutes inland, is a destination in itself for lunch.
  • Rethymno's student population keeps casual prices low year-round.
  • Fish is best bought by the kilo at the small coastal villages west of town.

The Venetian old town

Rethymno has the most intact Venetian old town in Crete, and the eating follows the architecture: courtyards, vine canopies, stone walls. The better kitchens sit on the quieter lanes rather than the main pedestrian arteries.

Look for short menus and dishes of the day written on a board. Ask what is cooked today rather than ordering the longest item on the menu.

  • Typical price: €18–€28 per person with wine.

The Venetian harbour

A tight horseshoe of fishing boats and closely packed tables. It is genuinely pretty and worth one dinner; just accept that you are paying for the water's edge and keep the order simple.

The beach strip — and why to skip it

East of the old town runs a long line of hotels and restaurants serving mixed international menus. If a menu offers Cretan food, pizza, schnitzel and curry on the same page, the kitchen is not cooking any of them properly. Walk back into the old town instead.

The Amari valley and mountain villages

Behind Rethymno the land climbs into the Amari valley, under Mount Psiloritis. The villages here have one or two tavernas each, and they cook what the village produces: lamb and goat, snails, wild greens, cheese, honey, barrel wine.

Go for Sunday lunch, allow the whole afternoon, and do not order too much at the start — the plates keep coming.

  • Typical price: €13–€20 per person, often generously more food than expected.

Practical notes

  • Dinner starts late; locals arrive after 21:00.
  • In July and August book old-town courtyards and harbour tables in advance.
  • Rethymno stays open in winter — unlike nearby resort strips.

Find a table in Rethymno

Woltaro is free for restaurants — no subscription, no commission — and free for diners to browse menus, book tables and buy event tickets.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the best area to eat in Rethymno?
The back lanes of the Venetian old town, away from the main pedestrian streets and the beach strip. For the best value, drive inland to the villages of the Amari valley.
Is the Rethymno harbour worth eating at?
For atmosphere, yes, once. The setting is charming but prices reflect the location, so keep the order simple — mezedes, grilled fish, a carafe of wine.
How much is a meal in Rethymno?
Around €18–€28 per person in the old town, €13–€20 in village tavernas inland, and €30–€45 for a fish dinner on the water.
What should I eat in Rethymno?
Cretan staples: dakos, snails, wild greens, slow-cooked goat, kalitsounia, local graviera cheese, and Psiloritis-region lamb.
Do restaurants in Rethymno stay open in winter?
The old town does. The beach hotels and much of the strip east of town close from roughly November to March.

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